FORTS'S PLACE: Exposure

In mountaineering and rock climbing exposure can be to the elements (frostbite) or it can be something that affects your perception of safety at elevated heights.

I have been an occasional rock climber for about 6 years. After climbing for a bit indoors, when I first started, I was lucky enough to work with a 14 year veteran climber (TJ) who had climbed all over the world. A true ‘geek’ of the sport as he can tell you about every route, move and even hold from any of the climbs he has done in Asia, Australia and even from our backyard crags in Gatineau.

I was able to learn a great deal from TJ as we began climbing indoor and out. The best experience that I had was on a 3 day trip to the Shawangunk ridge in New Paltz NY. The area is considered the Yosemite of the east coast. Many professional climbers live in New Paltz to train on these difficult routes. These routes also offer amazing views of the New York state region as well as some of the most exposed rock faces.

The proper definition of Exposure is; vulnerability to the elements; to the action of heat or cold or wind or rain; "exposure to the weather". Now the reason I italicized vulnerability, is bc there is no other word in the English language that sums up exposure so well. Of course the colourful commentary that ensued when I first felt exposure could have given you a hint, but I was on the side of a rock face with only one other person.

My definition of exposure is; an immense feeling of vulnerability from the affects of gravity and the sudden realization that there is nothing to stop you if you should fall. Picture tree tops look like small shrubs as you climb higher, and then you stop for a break turn your head back and all you see is, blue sky. The only thing keeping you from falling are you hands, feet and pro (climbing gear).

As we stopped at our third pitch(ledge) Tj realized that I was having a bit of an issue getting use to the idea of being so exposed. Before we moved further he decided to give me some ‘reassurance’ lessons. It was as simple a test as they come.

When you belay (letting out rope for the lead climber) you are anchored into the rock by bolts that have been inserted into the rock face by previous climbers. Some have chains others you must use your own gear to tie directly to the eye of the bolt. Before I was to belay TJ up the next pitch, he told me to sit back away from the wall and relax.

I looked out and really didn’t feel comfortable. Finally after a minute or so I was sitting out from the wall with my feet hanging more then 150 feet above the tree canopy and approximately 200feet from the ground itself. My adrenaline was running so fast I had a hard time controlling my breathing and TJ stayed around for a few more minutes so I could get use to the idea. After several minutes of hanging there turning and swinging a bit from the bolts in the rock I was finally comfortable with the idea of being exposed. It felt great to complete that climb which was a grueling 300+foot climb with some interesting overhangs and problems. It took us approximately 6 hours to finish the route.

Many professional rock climbers will free climb a route without rope. I personally don’t think that there is a reason for it but I suppose when you get so good at your sport, you have to see what limits you can push and when you can climb 5.15a(hardest route possible) clean(no falls), then what is harder? I guess you start soloing easier routes without ropes.

And that is what one of my favorite climbers, Peter croft, does. Peter croft is world renowned climber with many awards and has several first ascents of some now extremely famous and popular routes. He is also an avid free soloist climber where he will solo climbing routes without ropes or gear. He has been climbing for ‘The North Face’ for many years and the best part is that he is a Canadian boy from BC.